As someone who has grown up with so much freedom, the limitations and restrictions are difficult to accept without getting very angry indeed. And I did get angry at times. I cannot express my awe and admiration for my colleagues who are able to cope with and succeed in such difficult circumstances every single day.
I did encounter another kind of freedom in Darfur though. Away from the pressures of a commercial, capitalist, consumerist society, I felt liberated. In the UK, I am a slave to it. In Darfur I felt free. And happy. I was not expecting that.
As I get ready to leave El Fasher, my colleague Amel – an amazing force of a woman who is not scared of anything – tells me “my dear, you are my daughter of Darfur and I am your mother”. I am now back in Khartoum and in 48 hours I will be in London. But I hope some part of me will remain always the daughter of Darfur.

June 28th, 2012 at 3:37 pm
Hi Ella.
I have loved hearing about your trip, and loved the stuff you have written. It is so eloquent and communicates the true heart of what you have experienced without becoming self indulgent or sugary. The experiences remind me of my trip in 1981 to Central and Northern Nigeria. The sights, colour, sounds, smells, and the heat. However the writing you have undertaken far surpasses anything I could do to communicate my experience. Very well done
July 16th, 2012 at 3:02 pm
Hi Neal
Thank you so much for this – I’m really happy you have been following my trip and have enjoyed my thoughts on what I saw. It’s my first day back in the office today and it’s hard to concentrate after having experienced so many incredible things in Sudan.
Hope you are well,
Ella